In the deep at Ushaka
Mary Stuart Corrigall visits a theme park in DurbanApril 24, 2005 Edition 1
Mary Stuart Corrigall
As one who tends to cower away from tourist attractions, it was with trepidation that I made my way down Durban's seedy Point Road to Ushaka, the marine-themed park.
The path to this sea-world forces you through Ushaka Village, a themed shopping centre designed to ensure that visitors part with a few bucks before they reach the main attraction.
As shopping centres go, Ushaka village is of the more pleasant variety and despite my rejection of mall mentality I couldn't help but be amazed by the decorative details.
Gecko-shaped railings guide one down staircases, large tortoise mosaics cover floors, giant snakes are fashioned into exotic lights and metallic spears (something that wouldn't go amiss in a a Shaka production with a futuristic interpretation) loom threateningly along sidewalks.
The Zulu hut is given a modern twist and makes for attractive little shops stocked with the obligatory curio paraphernalia that keeps foreign tourists flocking to our modest shores in search of traces of a primitive society long dead.
Little do they know that the masks they take home are manufactured in a factory in Isando and possess as much spiritual significance as a potato chip.
Ushaka Marine World is reminiscent of Sun City's waterworld; foefie slides wind around palm trees and lush foliage creates a sort of Amazonian jungle experience.
If you had planned on popping into Marine World for a curious squiz, the hefty entrance fee may persuade you to reconsider: R85 for adults and R55 for kids.
Called the Phantom Ship, the aquarium is situated inside this artificially rusted structure and, as with Ushaka Village, one is directed through the ubiquitous tourist shop flogging Ushaka t-shirts, mugs and pens before you get to see the fish.
Even the most hardened cynic will be delighted by what lies inside this fabricated ship.
The attention to detail in the cavernous interior, coupled with a dose of imagination, lulls you into believing you are a courageous adventurer exploring the mysterious and magical population that inhabits the sea.
To complete the experience, moody music floats through the ship, which even creaks as if battling the strong sway of an imaginary ocean.
Bits and bobs from old engine rooms adorn the walls, further creating an authentic setting.
The shark tanks are an obvious show-stopper and even though there is a thick piece of glass separating you from a fatal encounter with these ferocious beasts, they still manage to inspire fear and flashbacks of Jaws I, II and III.
Even the smaller sharks and baby sharks looked mean, but their movements, which are slow and deliberate, are quite a mesmerising sight. There were children glued to the glass for hours watching these extraordinary sea animals.
For those who are into extreme sports and tempting fate, you can get even closer to the sharks, by being lowered into the shark tank in a protective cage. There were unfortunately no takers on the day that I visited and I certainly wasn't volunteering to turn myself into a hearty meal.
Most of the tanks, some of which extend to the surface of the park, are decorated with "sunken treasure chests", in which some of the fish hide from prying eyes.
Some of the larger tanks house quite a number of different species of sea life.
Finding Nemo fans will be delighted to discover a tank stocked with the real fish that inspired the animated movie.
Tropical, exotic, vibrantly coloured, peculiarly shaped and dainty fish are all to be found in this Phantom Ship. Even coral and other sea species are featured, which I found to be as intriguing as the fish.
They appear to be active, breathing animals as they jerk and twitch, mirroring the water's ebb and flow.
The Marine World is extensive and will keep you out of trouble for a good hour or two. However, what lies on the surface is less awe-inspiring.
Although the plants that line the pathways around Ushaka are the real thing, there are speakers planted in the gardens that blast out the latest radio hits, leaving you feeling as if you are in an outdoor mall.
With the beach a stone's throw from all the attractions, wouldn't the melodious sound of waves crashing in the distance make for a more authentic ambiance?
Aside from travelling in little dingy boats around the man-made streams that circle the park, one can watch dolphins and seals perform, or witness sharks at feeding time.
By the time I emerged out of the Phantom Ship all I was in the mood for was a plate of fish and chips. There is a restaurant inside the Phantom Ship, where you can view a tank full of fish while you snack on their relatives.
As a land-locked dweller, I chose to sit as close to the sea as possible at one of the many seafood and fish eateries that line the water's edge.
Ushaka sits right on the beach and as one strolls along the sand it becomes undeniably clear that nature's own theme parks will always supersede anything that man can concoct.




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